Getting the best shave comes down to having the best tools for the job. You’ll want to use a good shaving cream, of course, but the most important thing is to choose the right men's razor. A cartridge razor with disposable blades is the method most men learn first (and stick to), and replacement blades are available pretty much anywhere. An electric razor might be best for someone who wants to be as quick and efficient as possible. There are also safety razors, which have been around for more than 100 years and have recently surged in popularity because many feel they provide a better shave — plus, they’re more eco-friendly and economical. And there are straight razors, which are typically the domain of professionals, but may also appeal to passionate shavers because of the unique control they offer. The fact that countless different brands make different models of the same type of razor can make choosing the right one even more overwhelming.
To help folks find the best razors on the market, we asked 14 men’s-grooming experts — including ten barbers — about their favorites and combed through our archives to find other worthy options recommended to us before. The resulting selection of razors (below) features a style for pretty much everyone, including cartridge, electric, and safety razors, along with hybrid styles, and razors to use on sensitive skin. No matter which style of razor you choose, Tony DeAngelis, a co-owner of Blue&Black barbershop in Carroll Gardens, says there are two other important factors for getting a good shave: heat and stretching the skin. As he explains, “heat, whether from running the shower or the sink, allows hair to come off easier, which means less irritation. And stretching the skin while you shave means fewer chances of nicks and scratches, because you’re creating a tighter, smoother surface for the blade to move across.”
Even though cartridge single blade razor for men may be the most ubiquitous (and what most men learn how to shave with), 12 of the 14 experts we spoke with say that a safety razor is actually the best kind to use. The main thing it boils down to is the fact that with a safety razor, you’re shaving with only one blade — many of our experts told us that more blades do not necessarily mean a better shave, and that using multi-blade cartridges can increase the likelihood of ingrown hairs and razor burn. “The safety razor is the absolute way to go,” says Chad Beightol, the owner of New York City–based men’s-grooming store Consigliere. “You’re working with a single blade that is sharp, instead of relying on a multi-blade cartridge that is trying to trap the hair between the blades.” Paul Langevin of barbershop Mildred New York adds, “The single blade minimizes irritation.” Another plus is that safety razor blades (the best of which you can find here) are far less expensive to replace than disposable cartridges, and they don’t generate any plastic waste. The experts do admit that, at first, using a safety razor won’t be quite as effortless as shaving with a Gilette or Shick (and if you’d rather stick to those cartridge razors, there are some on this list, too). But they say most people are quick converts once they get the hang of it. We’ve written about safety razors before, and German razor manufacturer Merkur was the brand that came most recommended. The Merkur 34C remains our experts’ top pick, with many saying it’s an especially good choice for beginners because the short handle makes it easy to maneuver.
Bevel is a newer safety-razor company that both barber Julien Howard and Beightol recommend. You can purchase the twin blade razor for men and blades on their own, but they also have subscription options for scheduled blade replacement, along with a full line of shaving products. The Bevel razor also has a bit of a sleeker, more contemporary look than the others on this list, and a slightly longer and narrower handle that might be more comfortable for some.
Standard safety razors are pretty straightforward: The head of the razor closes around the flexible metal blade, which is then locked into a predetermined angle. This construction works well for most people, but some may benefit from being able to customize the angle at which the blade meets the skin. For someone with sensitive skin, a lower angle will allow for a gentler shave with less irritation. Someone with coarse facial hair, on the other hand, might prefer a more aggressive angle. It all comes down to personal preference, and that’s why Xavier Rodriguez of Fellow Barber and Peter Solomon of Tweed Barbers of Boston both recommend the adjustable Merkur Progress to anyone who thinks their safety-razor shave might benefit from some customization. It has five different blade-angle settings, and you simply twist the dial at the bottom to toggle between them. If you decide this is the razor for you, you’ll want to get some blades for it as well.
Mike Gilman, the owner of the Grooming Lounge, agrees that a safety razor is going to provide the best shave when used properly. But he also notes that using one may simply not be practical for everyone. You need to be a bit more careful with a safety razor, so it’s going to take a little longer to shave; you also need to devote some time to learning proper technique. “For most guys, the method of shaving that works best, and that they are most used to, is shaving with a cartridge razor. The blades and razors are available everywhere, and they’re super-easy to use.” If you want to go the cartridge-razor route, Gilman says it’s wise to stick with a classic. His pick, the Gillette Mach 3, uses a three-blade cartridge, which is a nice compromise between the single blade of a safety razor and the five blades of some of the newest cartridge razors. “I just think the Mach 3 is the way to go,” he says.

Langevin agrees with Gilman that a cartridge razor would be a better choice for “people who don’t want to master shaving with a safety razor.” He likes Harry’s, however, which he says makes a good “disposable-blade system.” Like Bevel’s razors, Harry’s razors and blades are available à la carte, but you can also sign up for a subscription blade-replacement plan through the brand’s website.
Editor’s note: While Amazon sells the women's razor with two blade refills, if purchased from Harry’s, you’ll only get the razor, hence the cheaper price.
Groomer and makeup artist Robert Reyes says that while “safety razors are great for sensitive skin, they can be a bit time-consuming.” So if you’ve got sensitive skin but prefer a cartridge razor, he suggests this Schick model that he personally uses. “It has lubricated skin guards that help protect the skin,” Reyes explains.
For the fastest and easiest shave, an electric triple blade razor for women will likely be the best bet, and some of our experts say that using one can also reduce the occurrence of ingrown hairs. “For those who don’t like the traditional methods, I recommend foil shavers,” says Langevin. Foil shavers have a thin perforated sheet of metal covering the blades; individual hairs are fed through the tiny holes and cut by the blade below. According to Langevin, the resulting shave is the closest you can get with an electric style, and comparable to that of an analog razor. “Foil shavers get almost as close as a traditional razor, sometimes even closer,” he adds. Langevin, barber Karac Ruleau of Mott NYC, and Heather Manto of Austin’s Independence Barber Co. all recommend the Andis Cordless Profoil Shaver — Langevin uses the Andis 17200 and Manto and Ruleau use the slightly older 17150, but they are essentially the same. (The Andis Profoil, perhaps not surprisingly, also appears on our list of the best electric razors). The shaver is designed with commercial use in mind, but Manto says she would recommend it for home use as well. “It helps to pull out ingrown hairs, doesn’t cause razor bumps, and can be used wet or dry,” she says. Adds Ruleau: “It gives you a super-close shave without any razor burn, is light, durable, and inexpensive, and doesn’t require a frequent charge.” But one note from all of our experts: Foil shavers like this aren’t designed to cut long hair and only work on short, “stubble length” facial hair. While that might seem limiting, Manto thinks it makes them a great choice for people who shave regularly.
If you’re looking for an electric option to tackle longer hair (or use on sensitive skin), four experts have told us that Wahl’s Peanut is the best because it has a powerful motor, is easy to maneuver, and comes with four guards that will help you achieve the exact facial-hair length you want. (The Peanut, according to even more experts, is also great for shaving your head and manscaping.) DeAngelis calls it a “compact, sturdy machine that is going to cut what you need it to cut, but still allow you to work safely around your mustache and lips.” If used without those guards, the trimmer will cut facial hair down to that coveted five-o’clock-shadow length, add the pros, who note that a trimmer like this is also the best style of electric razor for people with sensitive skin (because of the fact that it doesn’t cut so close results in less irritation). While Wahl also sells a cordless version of the Peanut, most of our barbers prefer the corded style because they say it offers more consistent power.
Marissa Machado, a celebrity groomer and makeup artist, and two regular guys — Strategist contributor Kurt Soller and New Scientist editor Conrad Quilty-Harper — like the OneBlade electric razor from Philips Norelco, another classic brand. The OneBlade uses cartridges that are meant to be replaced every four months and is shaped like a more maneuverable cartridge razor, but it’s battery powered and features a vibrating blade, so it also recalls electric styles. Machado says that “it gives a smooth finish” and, unlike other electric razors, it’s designed to “be used with or without shaving cream.” She also praises its customizability: “It comes with trimming attachments, so it’s really an all-in-one product.”

With different electrical termination styles, clamping mechanisms and the ability to accommodate holes and cutouts, mica-insulated band heaters are used successfully in many applications, particularly plastics.

Loss Prevention for Band Heaters
Most band heaters with heating plate do not “burn out”; instead, environmental factors create a short, cause hot spots to develop, or simply push the heater beyond its normal operating temperature. All of these factors cause a heater to fail prematurely and require replacement. Obviously, minimizing these environmental factors can reduce the frequency of replacing band heaters in your operation.

Contamination.By far, the most frequent culprit of band heater failure is contamination. Liquid plastic, hydraulic oil and moisture (often from high ambient humidity) are three main causes of premature failure from contamination. Obviously, keeping the heaters free of contaminants will reduce failure and replacement rates. In applications where liquid plastic and oil exposure are frequent and difficult to manage, the best solution may be to select a low cost band -- the heater will be replaced often, but the financial loss will be minimized. Alternatively, a band heater designed to resist contamination can be used. Keep in mind, though, that most heaters fail from lead wire damage caused by contamination -- not from contaminants finding their way inside the band -- and contaminant-resistant heaters will not prevent lead wire damage.

Poor Contact Between Heater and Barrel.The second most common cause of premature failure is poor contact between the machine barrel and the band heater. A tight fit is critical. Without it, localized hot spots can form on the band and cause the resistance wire to fail.

There are two steps you can take to ensure good contact with the machine barrel. First, make sure the machine barrel outer diameter (OD) measurement is accurate; then, order band heaters with that same measurement. The heater manufacturer will factor in a 0.25" gap, so there is no need to undersize the band’s dimensions.

Second, follow a strict installation and tightening procedure for mica, high watt density or extruded aluminum band heaters. Before installation, clean and smooth the machine barrel surface, removing any plastic residue. To install, tighten the heater snugly to the barrel using a clamping bolt torque of 10 ft/lb. Next, apply power to the heaters and allow them to reach halfway to setpoint temperature or approximately 300°F (149°C). Once at this temperature, cut the power and retighten the bands at 10 ft/lb torque. Retightening the band at an elevated temperature will account for the heater’s thermal expansion. (Remember, ceramic band heaters are radiant heaters and should not be tighten in this manner.)

Handling Procedures.Often, failing to understand a heater’s internal design leads to heater losses. For instance, stretching a one-piece mica band over a barrel during installation can damage the internal mica, resulting in a short circuit. Some manufacturers offer band heaters similar to mica bands that can be stretched for installation, but using installation techniques inappropriate for a specific heater type will cause problems. So, in cases where one heater design will not work -- for example, a machine setup that requires stretching the band over the end of the machine barrel, which would damage a mica band heater -- use a heater that is better suited to application such as a two-piece mica or a one-piece expandable band. A two-piece design also is a good choice when a large diameter band is required as the design minimizes the chance that air gaps will develop. Two-piece ceramic bands also can be used on large diameter barrels.

Another simple handling tip is to use two wrenches to install the wiring onto the band’s post terminations. This practice can eliminate failures because the wrench on the post’s lower nut acts as a strain relief. If this procedure is not followed, the post’s internal connection to the resistance wire can be damaged and become a weak link within the heater.

Runaway Temperatures.Heaters, like finned heaters, are extremely obedient entities. If a controller tells them to produce temperatures beyond their limitations, they will do so -- until their demise. Runaway temperature commands often occur when the thermocouple or RTD does not make solid contact with the surface measured. If the sensor becomes loose or disconnected from the surface, its readings may be hundreds of degrees lower than the process or barrel’s actual temperature. This faulty input then is received by the control device, which calls for full output from the heaters when in fact the process is already up to appropriate temperature.

Given the range of products plant maintenance and engineering personnel encounter, is not realistic for them to become experts on every piece of equipment used. This article only touches the surface of band heater design, options, performance expectations and loss prevention. Users should link up with a qualified supplier that can help design a new system or perform a design analysis on an existing system, then make recommendations to ensure the best performance for the given application. Systems arising from a good supplier/user partnership will extend equipment life and allow critical production schedules to be reached.

Sidebar: Understanding Watt Density Calculations
When designing a system, it is a good idea to match the total wattage applied to the actual wattage required. This practice decreases cycling frequency and temperature overshoots while increasing the heater’s life span. When possible, it also is good practice to specify strap-style clamping devices to hold the heater in place. These devices have a lower thermal expansion rate than the heater, so they can help hold the heater, or the defrost heater, tightly against the barrel during operation.

The durability and performance of a heater depends on selecting the appropriate wattage by using resistance thermometer. Exceeding the maximum allowable watt density for the specified heater size will result in premature heater failure. While calculating watt densities, remove the area of the cold section form the overall calculated surface area of the heater.

Watt Density (W/in2) = Wattage / (3.14 x Inner Diameter x Width) - (Cold Section)

Other points to consider while selecting watt density include:

• The watt density should be selected in accordance with the operating temperature.
  
  
• To avoid short cycling and inefficient operation, select a wattage as close to the needed capacity as possible.
  
  
• The wattage should be in accordance with the voltage and current rating of the controls.
  
  
• The safe heating pattern,and heating elelment of the material heated, thermal conductivity and coefficient of expansion of the cylinder are other factors that should be taken into consideration while deciding wattage.
  

The ceramic anilox roller is often referred to as the heart of the flexographic press. It is designed to deliver a precise and consistent amount of ink to the printing plate. 
An anilox roll is a hard cylinder, usually constructed of a steel or aluminum core which is coated by an industrial ceramic whose surface contains millions of very fine dimples, known as cells. The choice of the correct anilox roller is of central importance for an optimal printing result. Depending on the printing type, we recommend different engravings and cell volumes. The choice of the correct anilox roller is of central importance for an optimal printing result.
A flexographic printer often faces problems due to the nonavailability of the correct anilox roller. The purpose of this article is to make an attempt to throw some light on this very important subject.

Anilox roll:
The flexo printing/coating process depends upon the precise controlled transfer of a liquid ink, varnish or coating. An anilox roll is simply a metering roll designed to consistently supply a uniform and measurable volume of ink onto the image carrier.Anilox roll is considered to be the heart of the flexographic press. Older methods of mechanically engraving cells in to the surface of a roll have been replaced, to a large extent, by the precise computer controlled laser engravings of ceramic coated steel rolls. In this process, millions of minute holes (cells) are drilled into the ceramic surface of the roll. Ink receptivity and releasing capabilities of the anilox roll is of higher importance and ink transfer capabilities of the plate are determined by the surface technology of plate, surface tension of plate & ink and plate to ink compatibility.
The central part of the press is the anilox roller, the ink metering system unique to this process that allows the correct amount of ink to be carried to the printing plate. On the surface of the anilox roll are etched the cells which act as ink carriers.
The latest chrome anilox roller is laser engraved, with cell counts currently up to 500 cells/cm, from a steel roller and coated in fine ceramic. These laser engraved ceramic rolls could last up to 10 years, depending on the wear they are exposed to from contact with the doctor's blade. They provide an even, and consistent ink delivery in a controlled manner and provide narrow web flexo with a competitive edge in the leading packaging markets eg self-adhesive labels for wines. Once the anilox is ‘charged’ with ink, the excess is wiped off with a flexible steel doctor blade.
Besides the cell geometry, ink release capabilities of the cell are also affected by rheological properties of ink like; viscosity, surface tension, printing pressure between the plate cylinder and the impression cylinder, substrate properties, etc.

Anilox engraving angles:
Available engraving angles for anilox rolls are as follows; 90 degree angle, 45 degree angle, 30 degree angle and 60 degree angle.
In 60 degree anilox angle, the hexagonal cell offers 15 per cent more cells on the same area. Higher quantity of cells indicates a plus point concerning the ink transfer, as well as homogeneity.

Anilox sleeves:
Some of today's servo driven narrow web presses make use of anilox sleeves, which are much lighter than the standard solid anilox. The advantage is ease of handling and loading. On the narrow web side there is no difference in performance than with a conventional roll. Ceramic anilox sleeves initially were profiled in a scenario of short-run environments where anilox changes are very common and required, but have shown their usefulness regardless of the frequency of changeover. Sleeves are easier to store and inventory.
The disadvantages of sleeves are their cost as well as the different care and handling that is required. Converters need to design special racks to store sleeves so that the chance of damage is minimized. In addition, sleeves cannot be cleaned in the same fashion as rolls, which may add more time and cost.

Mirror rollers are generally used in plastics, packaging, printing, steel and other industries. Since traditional hard chrome electroplating cannot fully meet the requirements of wear resistance and corrosion resistance, our matting rollers can perfectly solve these problems. Its hardness is increased from HRV800 with hard chrome layer to HRV1200, the corrosion resistance is greatly improved, and the service life is long.

Dr blade materials, on the other hand, are a little more complicated of a subject than that of their shape. There are five materials commonly used to create blades today and they are as follows: plastic (UHMW/UHMWPE), stainless steel, carbon steel, tool steel and graphite. While the steel blades have upsides and are favored by many within the industry, current trends and advancements in technology are heating up the playing field for plastic and graphite.

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